Rapid Igniter Won't Start In Cold Weather, Solved (Again)

I'm a brand new Pit Boss owner - I just picked up a Pro 1600 PSE from Lowe's and spent yesterday assembling it. Got ready to start it up and do the burn-off, and it wouldn't start. Temp was right around 50° and you can see on the attached video what happened when I tried to fire it up. Anyway, I called PB customer service and the rep told me the same thing they told Ken S.

The good news is that they're sending me a replacement igniter that is specific to the 1600 PS series, which has rapid igniters. Here is the part description that was on the Order Summary that they emailed to me "Igniter - 12V DC 60W-PB1600PS2". They've also sent me detailed Igniter Replacement Instructions specific to the PB1600PSE and I've attached a copy of them.

Now for the bad news... they said that they have these unique igniters in stock, but due to the Christmas Holidays, it might be a week or so until I receive it. That's very disappointing news for someone with a brand new smoker who had big plans to use it to cook up holiday meals this coming week. I have heard that you can heat up the rapid igniter with a torch or a heat gun and that will allow the smoker to start up. Hopefully, that workaround will do until I get the replacement igniter.

The thing that I find hard to understand is why Pit Boss would still be selling smokers with this known defect. As a retailer, you only get one chance to make a first impression, and buying their top-of-the-line smoker and having it not work on your first try doesn't make a very good impression. When you call their customer service department, they immediately tell you that this is a known issue, and they're getting lots of calls about it, but there's a fix. Again... it just doesn't make sense to me. Oh well, at least they quickly responded, and from what I can tell, they seem very focused on taking care of their customers.

I'm looking forward to spending time on these forums and learning how to best use this smoker. This is my first pellet grill - I've been using a Pit Barrel for around 4 years now, and I'm looking forward to transitioning over to cooking with pellets.


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I’d suggest using a hair dryer to warm the igniter, worked like a charm in mine. I’d be worried a torch might change the temperature too quickly, and crack the ceramic.

Anyway, welcome to the forum and happy smoking. You’re gonna love your 1600PSE!
 
Well, I installed the replacement igniter that I got from Pit Boss today, and as you can see in the picture she fired right up at 40 degrees ambient. I'll try again tomorrow, supposed to be in the 30's, but I'll be stunned if it doesn't light.

A couple of weird things about this cold start fix. First, I've learned that the replacement Pit Boss sent me is a custom part, designed to replace certain Rapid Igniters only. You won't find anything like it aftermarket, and you can't even buy a spare yet from Pit Boss. I'm guessing they have a limited supply and they're keeping those for warranty replacements. For my PB1600PSE, the (unobtanium) replacement igniter is part number 90036, 12V DC, 60W. And get this, even though it's a round rod, the replacement is actually a rapid igniter!

Second, getting it installed was a bit of a project. The housing screw used for the rectangular model is too short, and they didn't send any new screws. So I took the housing to my local Ace Hardware to buy one that fit. Long story short, the screw is a metric, M4 x .70 pitch. To get those to work, I had to buy a metric tap to chase the threads in the housing, because they didn't go all the way through. Not too big of a deal but still, seems like Pit Boss is a bit behind the eight-ball so far with this cold weather issue.
My new igniter arrived, and when I went to install it today, I ran into the same issues that you did. My igniter housing had two screw holes in it, and as you stated, the one screw that was originally used was way too short. What I did find out, though, was that the screws that I removed from the hopper access panel to the wiring bundle were the correct pitch and would work just fine. However, I'm not going to use them for the igniter cover as I'm not sure that they could withstand the heat from the firebox/igniter.

I will try to go to my local hardware store tomorrow and find some stainless steel screws that will work. Did you install two screws to secure the igniter or just go with one? How far did you have the replacement igniter extend past the end of the igniter cover? The original one extended exactly .27" from my igniter cover.

Next, tell me how you snaked the new igniter back to plug it in. The plug on the end of the igniter is too wide to fit through the rubber grommet by the fan. Let me know what worked for you. I've attached the instruction sheet that they sent to me for installing this new igniter and it appears that it was meant for replacing our original rapid igniters with the exact same type - not this new skinnier model that they sent us.

Thanks in advance for your help with this!
 

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I read the igniter should stick out 3/8-1/2 inch. Yours was 1/4. If that worked id use that. Maybe 1/4-3/8.....

Getting new end through grommet. Remove grommet. It might be split. If not, split it, insert wire and reinstall.....

Screws. If you can use one of the screws from the access panel to hold igniter it should be fine. Unless those are plastic.

Use the short screw from the igniter to replace the panel screw...
 
Wow, that unit has an ash box. No need for a shop vac...very cool!
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My new igniter arrived, and when I went to install it today, I ran into the same issues that you did. My igniter housing had two screw holes in it, and as you stated, the one screw that was originally used was way too short. What I did find out, though, was that the screws that I removed from the hopper access panel to the wiring bundle were the correct pitch and would work just fine. However, I'm not going to use them for the igniter cover as I'm not sure that they could withstand the heat from the firebox/igniter.

Exactly, it gets pretty hot down there so you don’t want to use pot metal screws. The thread size is metric, M4 x .70 pitch, roughly 3/8” long. I also bought an M4 x .70 tap to chase the threads all the way through. For a few bucks, I’d suggest getting one of those as well.

I will try to go to my local hardware store tomorrow and find some stainless steel screws that will work. Did you install two screws to secure the igniter or just go with one? How far did you have the replacement igniter extend past the end of the igniter cover? The original one extended exactly .27" from my igniter cover.

I used two screws since there were two holes, and 1/4” to 3/8” rod extension past the end of the housing is about right. Don’t crank down too hard on the screws, they push directly onto the rod. And be careful when you remove your ash pot on the bottom of the barrel, it’s easy to bump the rod!

Next, tell me how you snaked the new igniter back to plug it in. The plug on the end of the igniter is too wide to fit through the rubber grommet by the fan. Let me know what worked for you. I've attached the instruction sheet that they sent to me for installing this new igniter and it appears that it was meant for replacing our original rapid igniters with the exact same type - not this new skinnier model that they sent us.

They say to tie a string to the plug, but I found it worked better by taping the string to the plug with some electricians tape. It’s easier to fenagle the plug back through the small whole when it’s taped so the string runs the same direction as the wire. And yes, you need to pull the rubber grommet out of the hole. Pro tip: put the grommet back in the hole before you connect the plug and install the bottom cover. Don’t ask me how I know! 🤦🏻

Thanks in advance for your help with this!

You’re welcome, good luck, and let us know how it goes!
 
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Exactly, it gets pretty hot down there so you don’t want to use pot metal screws. The thread size is metric, M4 x .70 pitch, roughly 3/8” long. I also bought an M4 x .70 tap to chase the threads all the way through. For a few bucks, I’d suggest getting one of those as well.



I used two screws since there were two holes, and 1/4” to 3/8” rod extension past the end of the housing is about right. Don’t crank down too hard on the screws, they push directly onto the rod. And be careful when you remove your ash pot on the bottom of the barrel, it’s easy to bump the rod!



They say to tie a string to the plug, but I found it worked better by taping the string to the plug with some electricians tape. It’s easier to fenagle the plug back through the small whole when it’s taped so the string runs the same direction as the wire.



You’re welcome, good luck, and let us know how it goes!
Thanks Ken - when I used the longer screws from the Hopper Access Screen, they extended all the way through the Igniter Cover and would engage the new igniter and hold it tight. So, I just need to find some SS screws that are the right length and use them. Did you have to remove the rubber grommet to get the plug through it?
 
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